L@u Around The World
Mexico tips

Quick access to the chapters

    To start with
    DF
      Sleeping
      Eating
      Not to be missed
    Guadalajara
      Eating and Going out
      Visits
      Hostel
    Puerto Vallarta
      Sleeping
      Eating
      Going out
      Washing
      Diving
      Excursions
      Time Share people
      Web Site
    Manzanillo
      Eating
      Diving
    Zihuatanejo
      Beaches
      Sleeping
      Eating
      Diving
    Acapulco
      Getting around
      To do
      Going out
      Sleeping
    Puerto Escondido
      Sleeping
      Eating / dreaking
      web sites
      Diving
      Internet
      Surfing lessons
    Oaxaca
      Sleeping (Hostels)
      Tours
      Eating
      Not to be missed
    San Christóbal de Las Casas
      Sleeping
      Not to be missed
      Tours
      Eating
      Going Out
    Palenque
      Tours
      Sleeping
      Getting around
    Isla Mujeres
      Sleeping
      Diving
      To do
    Tulum
      Eating / Sleeping / Drinking
      Ruins
      Recommendation
    Playa del Carmen
      Eating
      Internet
      Diving
      Going out
    Cotzumel
      Diving ... of course ;-)
      Sleeping
      Eating
    Merida
      Eating
    Campeche
      Sleeping
      Eating
    Villahermosa
      Don't miss
    Veracruz
    Valladolid

To start with

As usual I would recommend the Lonely Planet Mexico. There are also smaller versions if you visit only some part of the country (e.g. Lonely Planet Yucatan that covers the Yucatan peninsula and the Chiapas Plus Belize and Guatemala : that's the Mayan country).
But the version I had didn't include the lates youth hostel.
It's always useful to check the web sites that are updated more regularly (hopefully) :

If an address is listed in the Lonely Planet, I might not give it.
Prices are given in Mexican Pesos ($), unless stated otherwise (generaly USDollars U$) and are (of course) the prices when I visited (end of summer 2003): they will change !

DF

Sleeping

Hostal Catedral
Behind the cathedral from Zocalo
Guatemala 4 Col. Centro Mexico DF
Tel: 5518 1726
5518 1065
$130 U$12 (dormitory)
$260 U$24 (seul)
Big ! Lot of people ! But they organise several trips (including Teotihucan).
Las Dos Fridas
Hamburgo 301, 1er piso Col. Juarez
Tel: 52.555.286.3849
Web site: www.2fridashostel.com
Mail: info@2fridashostel.com
Small and nice: much friendlier than Hostal Catedral. Only two dorms ($120) and three private rooms.

Eating

no name
31 Carranza
Nice place with a super patio. Lunch $25
La Casa de Tono
Floresta #77 col. Claveria
Tel: 5386.1125
Sabino #166 col. Sta. Maria la Ribera
Tel: 2630.1084
The one recommended has the metro station really closed to a market ... but I can't remember wich one of the two it is ! ;-)

Not to be missed

Guadalajara

Eating and Going out

Tacos Providencia del Centro
Morelos No 86 plaza tapatia 3613-9914
simple but good ... and moreover beautiful. Not opened during evenings.
El Mexicano
My favourite place (probably because I had loads of fun the first time I was there with a bunch of Mexican): good food and lively atmosphere particularly upstairs at the week-end when they play music ... and the Mariachis from downstairs come upstairs too.
Restaurant - Bar Solé
Colón No17-A
Entre P.Moreno y Morelos
Tel: 3614-9067
Upstairs, nice meals and moreover good rock music: should be cool at week-ends with more people ... I was there during the week.
Meridiano
club with a nice atmosphere ... in particular if there's a brazilian band ! ! !

Visits

Organised tours with www.panoramex.com.mx : Tequila, Chapala lake, ...

Hostel

Maestranza #147, Colonia Centro.
Email: reserva@hostelguadalajara.com
Tel/Fax: (33) 35.62.75.20
Good location and seems nice (didn't go, found out too late)

Puerto Vallarta

Sleeping

Hotel Bernal
Fco Madero No 423
Col. Emiliano Zapata
PV, Jalisco, Mexico Tel: 01 (322) 222.3605
Nice little hotels ... there are a few around this one.
But there's no hostels at the time of visit (the one in the Lonely Planet was closed)

Eating

Casa Babilon
Calle 5 de Febrero #261 Col. E Zapata, PV, Tel: 222-1833
Frenchy who opened a little snack bar: salads and quiche ... nice, cheap and that's a change from tacos.
Abadia
Corner of Basilio Badilio & I.L. Vallarta
Tel: 222.6720
Web site: www.accessesmexico.com/abadia
E-mail: roberto_lavalle@hotmail.com
Nice restaurant with a nice setting. For a classy breakfeast at ordinary price ($49). Good offers for lunch and dinners too.
Bill's steak house
Corner of calle Morelos & Ortiz de Dominguez
Mariscos, tacos, comida corrida: good food and good price ... unusual on the north side of the river.

Going out

Strolling
Make your pick on the Malecón. At the time of my visit the Zoo was quite cool.
South of the river:
The (institution) Señor Frog is also worth a visit, and the club Roxy has really good bands playing rock covers.
The special: De santos
771 morelos
Night bar and restaurant nice and north of the river and not on the Malecón ... for a change !

Washing

Lavanderia Jabon
Calle Lazaro Cardenas between Constitucion and Vallarta
do it your self and ironing
(otherwise plenty on Madero, only the closest to the beach does ironing)

Diving

with Chico's of course: they are everywhere.
Main shop at:
772 Diaz Ordaz (on the Malecón).
Tel: 222.1875 or 222.1895
Web site: www.chicos-diveshop.com
E-mail: staff@chicos-diveshop.com
At the time of my visit, they had a really good deal: Open Water Course promo $2278 cash $3289 card

Excursions

Booze Cruise
It's worth going on a "Booze Cruise" even if not interested in getting drunk. They mainly go to the nice beaches south of the bay: Los Arcos, Quimixto (Las Animas), Yelapa. There's a trip to a little waterfall too. Sold by the people in the street, you will have to bargain. You can get it for free if you go for a time share visit.
Mismayola
It could be another trip although not that a great beach ... but it's fun to go to El Eden (shooting place of the movie Predator): jungle trips and waterfalls are on offer.
Punta de Mita
Maybe the nicest beach there ... although I haven't been ! ;-)

For the last two, you can get a bus from town to get there.

Time Share people

As you walk in town, you will get people asking you if you are interested in time shares (mainly if you are a couple and look like you have some money). You can get good deals in exchange of a few hours: cruises, bargain car rentals, ... It's up to you.
(cheap jeep rental - 140 pesos a day- at the corner of Lazaro Cardenas and Pino Suarez).

Web Site

www.do-it-in-vallarta.com

Manzanillo

Eating

Manza grillos
av Mexico No 60 Tel 333-20415
(nearly at the corner with the main square)
Upstairs, cool atmosphere ... and air too ! ;-)

Diving

Underworld Scuba Diving Academy
Plaza Pacífico
Tel: 333.0642 Cel: 044.314.358.5042 Fax: 333.3678
Web site: www.gomanzanillo.com E-mail: scuba@gomanzanillo.com
Nice people and nice diving: with a ship wreck just off the beach !

Zihuatanejo

Beaches

Sleeping

I went to Casa de Huéspedes Miriam
Nava 17, Tel: 554.3986
Simple and cheap ($60) ... but correct !

Eating

Several places to go ... but I would recommend trying Tamales y Atoles Any, in particular for the pozole: typical meal from the area, and for the friendly service and explanations.

Diving

Good diving with Carlos Scuba at Playa Las Gatas.
E-mail: zih@carloscuba.com
Tel: (755) 554.6003 Cel: (755) 557.9766

Acapulco

Getting around

Buses:
there are normal buses and air conditioned ones (for one peso more). The most useful route covers most of the bay road: from Playa Caleta to the naval base (there are also other routes). Handy and cheap during the day, but less frequent during the evening, and some of the bars and restaurants are further than the naval base.
Taxis:
the evening the colectivos (shared taxis) are the thing to do. For 10 pesos, they drive you till the end of the bay. But they start (and finish) a little bit further than the Zócalo. If you are staying in cheap hotels next to the Zócalo (like me), you should start your evening not too late (10pm max) with a bus. Then ask to the driver to drop you off the nearest possinble (one dropped me off in front of my hotel for $10 more - 20 pesos all together - but that's not legal). At the worst, you can walk back from the drop off point (that's not a nice neighbourhood at night ... but that's full of cops ... sleeping in the street !).

To do

Going out

There a lot of clubs ... but that was really quite when I was there. At the beginning of Condessa beach, there are plenty of bars and clubs: that starts around the Disco Beach. Make your pick: you can see from the streets what's going on.
I quite liked the Disco Beach even if it was really quiet: they had a great rock band. And as it's on the beach that must be worth a shot (moreover they have special evenings: foam parties and all ).
The Señor Frog is also worth going: nice view on the bay.
But I didn't like the evening cruise: very, very quiet !

Sleeping

Hostel K3
plaza condessa
Web site: www.k3acapulco.com
An hostel not listed in the Lonely Planet, well located for going out and beaches. But I liked the more mexican atmosphere around the Zócalo.

Puerto Escondido

Sleeping

Hotel Las Brisas
caretera Aleman Above Zicatella beach (climbing up the road at the corner of the Cinema, you get right in front of it when getting on the main road - i.e. Aleman).
Cheap $120 for two: with big rooms, swimming pool ... but no mosquito net. Frenquented by surfers and long stay residents: good atmosphere !
Hotel Aquario
Well located (right in the middle of the beach) and I had a good price $100 (for a small room with no much space) ... but it could be more expensive.
Hotel Rockaway
Good compromise: still on the beach but a bit further. Correct price but some people complained about being bitten by mosquitos and/or bed bugs.
Hostel
There's also an hostel on Zicatella beach wich I forgot the directions and name ... but it should be listed on the web.

Eating / dreaking

The Special
Opposite the hotel Olas Altas ... on the beach (just after the restaurant with a swimming pool on the beach ! Coming from the Cafecito - another good address, particularly for breakfeasts - and walking to the north, i.e. the town).
Nice for lunch: you can go and have a swim before / after / during ... and they have hammocks too ... for the siesta !
Cool for diner too: romantic atmosphere on the beach with candles !
They have good fish and pizzas, you will recognise the place with the pizza oven (with a rounded top) on the terrace !
The dead cheap
Downstairs at the Sports Club (aka Art & Harry).
Roasted chicken and rice for $15. A bit before (or after) the Cinema on Zicatela beach.
Casa Babilona
Cool place to have a drink (or more) in the evening ... everybody gets there !

web sites

www.centralsurfshop.com
Surf shop on Zicatella that organises plenty of events (competitions and all).
www.elsoldelacosta.com
A free gazette of Puerto Escondido

Diving

Aventura Submarina
Av. Perez Gasga 601-A, Puerto Escondido
Tel: 582.2353 Cel: 044.954.588.1682
I didn't dive with them but they seem OK. 600 pesos for a two tank dive.

Internet

The place next to the Hotel Aquario is nice, not more expensive than others and with air conditioned.

Surfing lessons

The main point of going to Puerto Escondido.
You can get lessons at all the shops ... but you can also get lessons from other people. A young guy doing henea tatoo on the main street was offering a good deal with a 2 days lesson, with driving and board included ... shop and ask around !

Oaxaca

Sleeping (Hostels)

Casa Paulina
Really clean and well located. Could be better for the atmosphere (hopefully, it will improve when the cafeteria will open) ... but nice anyway, and great roof terrace.
Magic hostel
It is supposed to be OK (unlike the one in San Cristóbal.

Tours

Macedonio
Alcalà No 201
E-mail: continentalistmotours@hotmail.com
The visit of Tule, Teotilan, Mitla for $100 is a really good deal. For $100 more, Yagul and a mescal distillery is not as good ... but it's still a nice deal.
Tours change according to oportunities and season: you might get offered some thing else.
Monte Alban
You go on a bus (see the Lonely Planet), and you might want to take a guide on the spot.

Eating

Restaurante El Naranjo
Really good food and really good setting.
Ice cream special
on the square of la Basilica de la Soledad. One of the local specialty: leché quemada con tuna ... I didn't like it much, but you can try it anyway.
local BBQ
Try the local market.

Not to be missed

San Christóbal de Las Casas

Sleeping

BackPackers hostel
Real de Mexicanos #16
Tel: (967) 674.0525
Web site:www.mundomaya.com.mx/bacpackers
E-mail: backpackershostel@hotmail.com
They usually have someone at the bus station trying to sell you the place (too new to be in the books) and they will pay for the taxi to the hostel (it's a bit far ... but still walkable).
The best one I have been: probably because of the people who were there. But surely also because of the friendly, nice and relax staff. Not the cleanest but still really good and great place.
Magic hostel
Avoid it, as I have heard bad stories about it.

Not to be missed

Cañon de sumidero
$100 for the tour in a boat. To get there, take a bus from San Christóbal bus station - about an hour ride with great views.
Surrondings villages
The one to do is San Juan de Chamula with its particular half pagan church (floor with pine needles, and pagan practices to expell bad spirits out of the body). It can be done as horse back trip: great fun, half a day trip, shop around for the best deal.
Another option is a guided tour, which includes another village. The best is the one with Mercedes: she's on the main square every morning at 9h twirling a colourful umbrella.
Templo de Santo Domingo
Fantastic church !
The two Cerros
at least from the bottom
A special place: jardín de orquideas
real de guadalupe no 153
A garden with philosophical quotes ... and explanation about the life in Mexico (and creation of life: the Big Bang and all). Really different and quite interesting and relaxing.

Tours

Tours can be made from here to Misol-Ha, Agua Clara, Agua Azul and Palenque. These are better be done from Palenque and going to Palenque on your own by bus. This is a good option only to save time: but that's going to be a long day.
Shop around for your best deal. A good agency:
Zapata tours
Av. Insurgentes #19
Tel: (967) 674.5152 Cel: 967.100.7806
Web site: www.zapatatours.com
E-mail: zapatatours@yahoo.com.mx

Eating

Bulle
Real de Guadalupe No 23C
BBQ buffet, eat as much as you like (with salad bar as well) for $50. Good meat but not that good ... still a really good deal.
Comedores
At the square at bottom of Santo Domingo church ... not the best in Mexico, but cheap !
Those in the market are slightly better (on my opinion): they are more "commida corrida" (daily special) than tacos.

Going Out

Blue
on Crescencio Rosas
It is really good. At the BackPackers, they will give you leaflets for free drinks (cheap cocktails).
Revolución
corner of av. 20 de Noviembre and 1ero de Mayo
A good bar with live music nearly every night !
Las Velas
Francisco Madero between Juarez and Utrilla
It is supposedly a good bar ... better never managed to make it there ... always stopped at one of the two others (if not both) !

Palenque

Tours

Misol-Ha, Agua Clara, Agua Azul
I did the tour with Chambalu (not more expensive than others ... nor cheaper), $100. It's better to book in advance particularly if not doing it alone, starts at 9h.
Bonampak & Yaxchilán
I did the tour with the agency Yumikash on av. Juarez in front of the bank Banamex (yumikash1@hotmail.com). It was the best deal of the moment with a three day tour: first day Bonampak & Yaxchilán, night in the jungle with the Lacandon, second day jungle trip, night in the same place again, and then third day trip to Flores. The trip to Flores (with boat trip at the border) can be done in one day.

Sleeping

At El Pachán, to avoid the town which is not interesting at all. There cool place: it's a bunch of camping and cabanas rentals put together with a couple of bars and restaurants. Make your pick. Cool bar and restaurant at the evening (follow the music) !
Located on the road between the ruins and the town

Getting around

To go to El Pachán or to the ruins, there are shuttles running frequently. But they stop at 18h, after that you will need to take a taxi (no point of going to the ruins but if you arrive late and want to go to El Pachán).
It is not recommended to take the night bus between San Christóbal and Palenque.

Isla Mujeres

Sleeping

hotel Marcianito
One of the best deal of Mexico: really clean, nice furbishing, good bathroom, and well located. For $200 a double-bed room, it's only interesting for 2 people sharing though.
recommended: Accomodation rentals
near the Pocnak Hostal, called "Triched", calle Lazo
Rick US owner. First one is best with melon paintings

Diving

With Coral shop
Matamoros & Av. Rueda
Web site: www.coralscubadivecenter.com
Nice wreck diving to be done !

To do

Tulum

Eating / Sleeping / Drinking

It seems that the cabañas places around the the light house have the best deals ... definetely for food ! The place next to Cabaña Copal (in direction to the ruins) is a good deal too.

Ruins

There are quite nice but far from the best. The settings is unique: right on the beach !
The nice trick to know: you can access the ruins without paying by walking from the beach, climb up to the light house, walk along the fence, carry on walking along the path in the forest. Eventually you will be walking on the wall of the ruins: carry on walking, you're in without paying a penny !

Recommendation

I have been told to go snorkling with Galion (?) in Akumal.
But I forgot, and didn't do it ... and not sure what it is about anymore ! ! ;-)

Playa del Carmen

Eating

El Paso
Av. 10 between calle 10 y 12 (same side as the cinema and commercial centre)
lunch: 3 tacos for $22, comida corrida for $30, agua fresca $7
Tuto Dolce
café-boulangerie (in front of the previous one)
breakfeast: orange juice, café (they even changed for a chocolate), 2 croissants + butter and jam for $30
Antojitos "Los Almendros"
corner of av.10 & calle 6
comida corrida $35
Los Portales
corner of av.10 & calle 6 (other side from Los Almendros)
for the tacos ($3), and roasted chicken ($20)
Restaurante El Cuerno De Oro
calle 2 (between av.10 & 15)
comida corrida $25
Jugos California
calle 2 (between av.10 & 15)
Good tortas and juice

Internet

Despacho Contable y Fiscal
av. 10 (between calle 2 Norte & 4)
Nice, air conditioned, fast conexion, and never full: $15/h
lavanderia del Carmen
calle 2 (between av.10 & 15)
The cheapest: $10 /h

Diving

Phantom Divers
Tel: (984) 879-3988
Locals and second generation. Cool and rather et "mexicans" ! ;-)
$1 100 pesos for diving to a cenote
Abyss
On the beach next to the Blue Parrot.
Nice, professional but ran by foreigners !
Yucatech Divers
They seem nice and they have their own swimming pool for the Open Water course.

Going out

Cotzumel

Diving ... of course ;-)

Recommended by Thierry & Jean-Paul (Zihua)
El Pulpo with Alberto Angulo Sauri
Tel: (987) 872.6384 Cel: (987) 100.5434
Web site: pulpodiveshop@prodigy.net.mx
Best dive: Palancar

Other dives shop: as recommended by LP Carribean Divers, Blue Bubble, Yucatech Expeditions. Another one: Dive Paradise. They publish a fanzine with info on the island life and more importantely the dives (plus their price list). Pick up one for free at their shops. info@diveparadise.com

Sleeping

Posada Letty
Corner of av. 15 Sur & calle 1 Sur
Tel: 872.0257
The best deal I have found on the island

Eating

Camillio's (mariscos)
5 av. entre calle 2 y 4 Norte (delivery)
Tel: 872.61.61
Good sea food and not too expensive: tacos, tortas, ceviche, cocktel ...
La abuelita
av 10 nearly at the corner with calle 1 Sur (going to Av. Benito Juarez)
Small nice snack with good sandwiches, entrance on calle 1 Sur is a mini bar.
La cafeteria
For nice breakfeasts (it's full of locals ... so that's cheap and good !). It's possible to bring in stuff from the boulangerie next door (they're the same shop: they have a communicating door). Unfortunately, they don't do hot chocolate !
Pizzeria Il Quadrato
On Av. Benito Juarez on the pedestrian part in front of Chachi shop, nearly in front of the church.
Cool place, wood oven pizzas, cheap slices and nice cocktails ... cheap too (and beers as well).
La Parroquia
Upstairs. Good and cheap, real local atmosphere !

Merida

Sleeping

Hostel Nómadas
They also organise trips (well at least bookings) in the area and will give you information and tips. The owner speaks french (he lived in France, Belgium and Switzerland) and he's really nice. Lot of activities organised: salsa lessons, concerts, ...
Merida Hostel
Calle 57 #495 (between 58 & 60)
Tel (spanish): 924.0859 Cel (french & english): 044 9999.69.5282
E-mail: r_espejo@yahoo.com
I checked it out a bit, and it didn't seem as nice as the Nomadas. But it's slightly cheaper.

Eating

El Trapiche
Calle 62 (x 59 y 61)
Good "comida corrida" and cheap: $25
Forgot the name
On the Zócalo (north side, next to the ice cream place). Nice meals and cheap : tamale $15.

Campeche

Sleeping

Monkey hostel
Calle 57, on the main square, opposite the Cathedral, next to the Centro Cultural Casa No 6.
Nice hostel (great view from the roof terrace).

Eating

El Faro del Morro
Interior Marina Yacht Club, av. Resurgimiento No 120
A bit further than the fuerte San Miguel
Tel: 816.1990
Good food at a reasonable price. Great appetizers and free as well !
As Espacios Nauticos & Turisticos, they organise activities as well: boat trips, fishing, skiing ...

Villahermosa

Don't miss

Veracruz

City with a nice atmosphere.
To go out, you will have to go the hotel zone to get a bit of entertainment. It's farly quite around the Zocalo.

Valladolid

I have been told to go and see the flamingos there, at Rio Los Gatos